Shoemaking 101: The Process for Handcrafting Leather Shoes
Ever wonder how a pair of handmade leather shoes really comes together? At Adelante, each shoe is crafted using decades-old techniques, high-quality patterns, specialized equipment, and the finest leather. We take pride in our shoemaking process because it’s uniquely personal. We carry no inventory – our expert cobblers make shoes to order, so your shoes are crafted just for you. Here’s how we handcraft beautiful made-to-order shoes that will last a lifetime.
Step 1: Cut and Sew
All footwear uppers are cut by hand here at Adelante. Product quality begins with the leather, and we love full-grain because it’s durable, soft, and gets even better with age. To make the upper of a shoe, craftsmen first select the best section of leather, place the pattern pieces, and cut in a fluid motion.
Next, craftsmen carefully stitch the pieces together. Precision is key here – sewers must maintain alignment between pieces while guiding the needle around corners and along imaginary lines. The sewn uppers are then ready for lasting!
Step 2: Onto the Lasts
In this next step, the uppers are stretched by hand over lasts, or shoe molds, that we carry in any size and width you could imagine. This is where the craft process reaches a whole new level – in fact, this step takes such skill that we actually introduce our customers to the craftsman who lasts their shoes. The footbed is first nailed to the last, and then the leather upper is stretched over the last with pliers and secured with small nails to ensure the perfect shape.
Step 3: Welting
Goodyear welting is considered the gold standard of shoemaking, and we use this technique to craft every style of our men’s and women’s handmade leather boots and many of our shoes. To begin the welting process, your craftsman takes a strong strip of fabric and fastens it around the perimeter of the footbed. Next, he’ll take a leather welt strip, skyve it down, feed it into the Goodyear welting machine and position the shoe. The machine’s needle will penetrate through the welt strip, the fabric wall, and the leather upper to make a watertight seal. The open space in the bottom of the shoe is then filled with cushioned memory foam for comfort and a steel shank for durability.
Step 4: Crafting the Sole
Next, a strong piece of soling leather is stitched onto the bottom of the shoe to form the midsole. This is the exposed stitch you’ll be able to see when looking down at a pair of finished Goodyear welted shoes. Next, the heel is formed from pieces of strong soling leather nailed together. This is a genuine stacked leather heel, which is much more durable than a cheaper imitation heel, usually made of plastic. If you’ve elected to have a rubber sole protector, the craftsmen will cement this onto the bottom of the shoes.
Step 5: Finishing Touches
In the final stages, the shoes pass through quality control to ensure everything is perfect. The craftsmen clean the leather and polish the heels, prepping the shoes to be boxed and shipped to your door. One special detail you’ll notice on your Adelantes is that they’re individually signed – the cobblers are proud of their work, so they sign the inside of each pair that they make.
Invest in a Pair of Handcrafted Leather Shoes
The Adelante shoemaking process is incredibly complex, and requires the care and attention to detail of highly skilled artisans. All Adelante shoes are also made-to-order, which provides a level of personalization and connection that you won’t find in any other shoe brand. Experience the magic of made-to-order and invest in a pair of our men’s or women’s leather shoes today!